Preparing for a Cham Dance in Korzok Village, Tsomoriri

Prior Warning! Image intensive for those with limited bandwidth. Keeping the photos small. You can click on them to see the bigger version but that will lead you to the flickr site where I am keeping the photos. So if you wanna view the bigger version, just use the open new tab or window rather than clicking the images.
PS : sorry about not processing the photos on PS, am a little lazy to clean up the photos, so you are getting the images unprocessed, just resized and converted straight from raw with the dust spots and all.

Early September 2009 A high lama visited the village of Korzok at Tsomoriri and they decided to perform a Cham dance only the day before. The Cham dance or Masked dance is only performed by the monks and suppose to give merits to the audience, the monks are dressed in beautifully made ornamental costumes and masks of animal deities. I happened to intrude into the preparations for the cham dance while everyone else including some annoyingly irritating Indian photographers and some other rich European photographers with huge camera set-up waiting in the courtyard for the performance. The monks were kind enough to let me stay on and photograph them dressing up for the dance. The whole preparation was amazing, everyone calmly went about dressing up, the other monks and villagers helping out, dressing the monks in their beautifully intricate costumes. The feeling I got from this event : well its more genuine and provincial, more real compared to the other large events that is happening in the other places.

 

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The monks preparing for the first cham dance, there are 2 dances or 'acts'. The first 'act' has the monks covered without the deity masks.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Korzok village isn't really a rich village hence the rather humble setup for the costumes and cham dance setup. However the village use to be quite rich before with the villages having tons of pashima goats, cows, sheeps and other livestock trading with nomadic changpa people.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village A monk all dressed up and ready for the first dance

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The two cham masks of animal deities for the second dance. the eyes were covered before the high lama came in to conduct some prayers.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The caretaker monk in charge overlooking the costumes. He is in charge of the daily evening pujas (prayers) for the gompa

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

 

Laying out the costume for the first dance

 

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Taking out the deity mask for the second dance. Its eyes were uncovered after some prayers and chanting by the monks before the performance.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The monks all prepared and waiting for the high lama to inaugurate the whole dance by saying prayers and giving offers to the gods at the gompa. The dressed up monks all gathered at the altars and did some quick chanting before the performance.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The high lama greets all the dancers and proceeds to praying and invoking the gods at the altars and asking for blessings to the performance.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

All ready, the monks walking out for the first dance one by one, drumming along the way

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The monks out to the courtyard for the first dance while one of the head monks watches on Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

 

The dance at Korzok gompa courtyard, quite a big event with the villagers out in their best clothes even though this was a last minute, the event announced and decided only the day before. Word gets out pretty fast here.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

 

The cham dance at Korzok gompa courtyard with audiences from Korzok and nearby villages

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The villagers watching, some came from nearby area around Korzok and Tsomoriri lake. All came with their best clothes and beautiful colorful woollen weaved shawls with wool lining on the inside.

 

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

 

Preparing for the second dance with the deity masks

 

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The monk and his sword awaiting for the mask to be placed on him

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Putting on more detailed ornaments, actually takes quite awhile putting on the little details.

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The Korzok gompa not really a rich monastery, they still make do with the decorations. The skull ornament is usually craved out from bone but they were inventive to create it from leather.

 

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Waiting for help with his costume for the second dance with the deity mask

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

During the break for the second dance, one of the villagers offering yummy salted goat butter tea to everyone including myself! Such wonderful people!

 

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

 

Antelope mask deity for the second dance

 

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Dressing up for the second dance, preparing for the heavy deity head mask to be placed upon Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The deity mask is incredibly heavy!

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

More ornaments waiting to be dressed up

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Second dance over, the last cham dancer returns back to the gompa as the trumpets playing to welcome him back. The trumpets are blown following the dancers in and out of the gompa chambers

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Cham dance over, the monks playing the tibetan trumpets as the high lama proceeds back to his chambers in the gompa

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The high lama giving his blessings to the local villagers as he returns to his private resting chambers

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

Show's over, the monks taking their instruments and other stuff back

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The villagers making their way back home after the cham dance along with their prayer wheels

Preparing for a cham dance in Korzok village

The locals going home after the cham dance with the frequent sand storm looming over. The ladies dressing in their best clothes, colorful shawls self weaved from the wool they got from their sheep and pashima goats.

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Beware! Bangkok Airport scam by Thai Airport Police!

Tourists warned of Thailand airport scam

By Jonathan Head
BBC News, Bangkok

Bangkok's showcase new international airport is no stranger to controversy.

Built between 2002 and 2006, under the governments of then-Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, the opening date was repeatedly delayed.

It has been dogged by allegations of corruption, as well as criticism of the design and poor quality of construction.

Then, at the end of last year, the airport was shut down for a week after being occupied by anti-government protesters.

Now new allegations have been made that a number of passengers are being detained every month in the duty free area on suspicion of shoplifting, and then held by the police until they pay large sums of money to buy their freedom.

That is what happened to Stephen Ingram and Xi Lin, two IT experts from Cambridge, as they were about to board their flight to London on the night of 25 April this year.

They had been browsing in the duty free shop at the airport, and were later approached by security guards, who twice asked to search their bags.

They were told a wallet had gone missing, and that Ms Lin had been seen on a security camera taking it out of the shop.

The company that owns the duty free shop, King Power, has since put the CCTV video on its website, which does appear to show her putting something in her bag. However the security guards found no wallet on either of them.

Despite that, they were both taken from the departure gate, back through immigration, and held in an airport police office. That is when their ordeal started to become frightening.

Interpreter

"We were questioned in separate rooms," Mr Ingram said. "We felt really intimidated. They went through our bags and demanded that we tell them where the wallet was."

The two were then put in what Mr Ingram describes as a "hot, humid, smelly cell with graffiti and blood on the walls".

Mr Ingram managed to phone a Foreign Office helpline he found in a travel guide, and was told someone in the Bangkok embassy would try to help them.

The next morning the two were given an interpreter, a Sri Lankan national called Tony, who works part-time for the police.

They were taken by Tony to meet the local police commander - but, says Mr Ingram, for three hours all they discussed was how much money they would have to pay to get out.

They were told the charge was very serious. If they did not pay, they would be transferred to the infamous Bangkok Hilton prison, and would have to wait two months for their case to be processed.

Mr Ingram says they wanted £8,000 ( about $13,000) - for that the police would try to get him back to the UK in time for his mother's funeral on 28 April.

But he could not arrange to get that much money transferred in time.

'Zig-zag' scheme

Tony then took Ms Lin to an ATM machine and told her to withdraw as much as she could from her own account - £600. He then withdrew the equivalent of £3,400 from his own account.

According to Mr Ingram this was then handed over to the police, and they were both forced to sign a number of papers.

Later they were allowed to move to a squalid hotel within the airport perimeter, but their passports were held and they were warned not to leave or try to contact a lawyer or their embassy.

"I will be watching you," Tony told them, adding that they would have to stay there until the £8,000 was transferred into Tony's account.

On the Monday they managed to sneak out and get a taxi to Bangkok, and met an official at the British Embassy.

She gave the name of a Thai lawyer, and, says Mr Ingram, told them they were being subjected to a classic Thai scam called the "zig-zag".

Their lawyer urged them to expose Tony - but also warned them that if they fought the case it could take months, and they risked a long prison sentence.

After five days the money was transferred to Tony's account, and they were allowed to leave.

Mr Ingram had missed his mother's funeral, but at least they were given a court document stating that there was insufficient evidence against them, and no charge.

"It was a harrowing, stressful experience," he said.

The couple say they now want to take legal action to recover their money.

'Typical' scam

The BBC has spoken to Tony and the regional police commander, Colonel Teeradej Phanuphan.

They both say Tony was merely helping the couple with translation, and raising bail to keep them out of prison.

Tony says about half the £8,000 was for bail, while the rest were "fees" for the bail, for his work, and for a lawyer he says he consulted on their behalf.

In theory, he says, they could try to get the bail portion refunded.

Colonel Teeradej says he will investigate any possible irregularities in their treatment. But he said any arrangement between the couple and Tony was a private affair, which did not involve the police.

Letters of complaint to the papers here in Thailand make it clear that passengers are regularly detained at the airport for alleged shoplifting, and then made to pay middlemen to win their freedom.

The Danish Embassy says one of its nationals was recently subjected to a very similar scam, and earlier this month an Irish scientist managed to flee Thailand with her husband and one year-old son after being arrested at the airport and accused of stealing an eyeliner worth around £17.

Tony told the BBC that so far this year he has "helped" about 150 foreigners in trouble with the police. He says sometimes he does it for no charge.

The British Embassy has also warned passengers at Bangkok Airport to take care not to move items around in the duty free shopping area before paying for them, as this could result in arrest and imprisonment.

Have you used Bangkok's main airport recently? Do you have any stories to tell about how you were treated there? Send us your comments:

A similar system operates in Cambodia. Police arrest foreigners in the street and you are contacted by someone who claims to have influence with the police and judges and who asks for large sums for your immediate release, which doesn't happen. I was even told at my friend's trial that the police would provide witnesses of my friend's offence if more money was not immediately provided. Even though there was no evidence against him and he was acquitted, a large sum had to be paid to the prison authorities for his release. John Smith, Doncaster, England

Two friends and I travelled to Bangkok 29 December 2008. We were really worried about the situation there, as the airport had just been closed for some time several weeks before. Aside being quite harassed by taxi drivers who wanted to take us to hotels they no doubt received commission from, the experience wasn't very trying at all. Connor, Chicago, IL, USA

Another scam at Bangkok Airport is when the Thai customs meet passengers off airplanes from Dubai/Qatar where there is cheap duty free. The customs tell passengers to put duty free items inside their check-in luggage when they take it off the carousel - or they will be prosecuted for smuggling. They then tell people that it will be OK not to show or declare any duty free items. When the passengers reach the arrivals area, the customs pounce and you are arrested and taken to customs head office at BANG NA and told to pay four times the duty or go straight to jail. There is an ATM machine next door to the customs office. Your goods are kept by the officers and they then pocket the money you have paid them and you are free to go without any criminal record. Paul Grant, London, UK

Same happened to me in April this year. The police arrested me and charged me approx £400. There were 5 of us in our group, we purchased 1000 cigarettes at Heathrow, but on leaving the plane at Bangkok the police approached me and told me to keep them in one bag. I did as I was told, and that was the set up, so when I got through customs with the other four people they arrested me and would not accept what we told them. They took copies of my passport and made me sign at least six documents, all in Thai. They would not give me copies so at this moment I don't know what I signed. They escorted me to an ATM. I have been in touch with the British consulate who asked me if I want to make a complaint but I don't want to go to another country and find they have done something to my passport. I will never return to Thailand again, it was the scariest time of my life. Lynn Ward, UK

Don't Ask me Where I come from!

Where do you come from?
- One of the most dreaded repeated questions while I'm travelling.


If you have every local you meet asking you repeatedly then immediately forgets your answer, you would get kinda irritated.

Not many people know where Singapore is, and if they have some remote sense where it is,  they would usually think Singapore is in some part of China.

Often it is some of the Indians who would pretend they know where it is and promptly argues with me where my country should be.

"You are in China hei!"  only after a few seconds of my replying to their repeated Where do you come from question.

So...

Finally after being in India for a few months,  I have succumbed in learning more  hindi beyond the numbers and asking for directions.

Never really felt the need in learning the language since I have been travelling to places where English is more commonly spoken than hindi.

If you are sick of replying the locals who ask you the same question then promptly forgets your answer, you should learn this phrase.


As inspired by my favorite mandarin song :

不要问我从哪里来
mujhe mat poochhiye ki main kahan se hoon
Don't ask me where I come from

我的故乡在远方
meri janmbhoomi kahin door hai
I come from far far away

橄欖樹 - Olive Tree by Stephanie Sun